|
I retro-fitted the masonry water-drip kit and have cut tile, flagstone, brick, maybe thin concrete, and most recently.a granite countertop--all counter to "opinion" I heard today from a Home Depot whiz. To save reading/typing, I'll echo what M/M Larsen, Martin, and Takahashi all said. Larsen.Additionally, I was in the water intrusion forensics in the mid-90s and saw someone use it on stucco to line out where to break out the stucco. I bought a little tool box for it and have been soooooo happy. get a carbide blade. They had multiple batteries and back then, the saw was a wonder.People have to remember that in the early-mid-90s, 9.6v was state of the art.
It isn't good for plunge cutting (not a surprise---other saws are designed for that), and the batteries don't last long if you're doing heavy cutting. I bought mine for the exact reason of M. Where other saws don't fit, this one does (heads in, not the long tail-end) with much less chance of overcutting--kind of important on one-time-get-it-right cuts. The saw seems so under powered now, but back then, it was one of the first of its kind. Makita does make a 14.4v unit.Longevity: I used mine on site over several years and 40 water intrusion forensic jobs.inside and outside (mostly for drywall, though), and I have the original one I bought in 1996. But for small, fine cuts.Foot stomp: like the others said.
Oh, charge the battery before using it "out of the box."
Bought this as a replacement for one I wore out after many, many years of service. Handy for lots of small jobs, from sheetrock cutouts to shingling sidewalls. Be aware of the kick-back it is pretty strong. All the controls for adjustments are easy to use.
So now my steps (5) are looking good. My old circular was just too heavy, so I purchased the cordless circular saw and I just love it. I'm a 75 year old widow and I still enjoy repairing things around my house. Thanks Makita. I love not having a cord to worry about or tripping over. LOL.at this age I sometimes forget those important things that could prove a danger to me. I also used my Makita cordless drill to put in the screws. No strength left for hammering nails into those boards.
I would not use it for finish cuts or edges that will be seen, it's chippy even when cutting from the back. plunge cutting has to be done slow or the saw will kick back.
I Purchased the 5090DW mostly for cutting access panels, outlet holes and other misc. cutouts, especially in tight areas.
I am a 11 year carpenter and currently installing high end kitchens (60 to 200K). The saw has good tork, however rpm is way low.
After using the tool for several weeks I'm mostly pleased. I instanty threw out the blade that came with it and spent $15 on a carbide tipped blade which improved performance considerably but.
Works well in 1/4" but not so much in 3/4 particle particle board. A very light duty tool.
I bought this saw for all of those little quick cutoff jobs like the stakes for bender board, cutting up yard debris, etc.For what I got it for, the saw is PERFECT.
|
